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Everything posted by Maga

  1. I have been feeling that the charcoal output from my log pits hasn't been very good lately. I did a test just now and my 8x8x4 charcoal pit (every pile full, meaning 4096 logs) only gave me 788 charcoal (ratio of ~5.2 logs per charcoal) Is this the intended number? I also noticed 3 spots where the 4-high log piles created 0 charcoal and this has me confused. Anyone else seeing this?
  2. GMT-7:00 (Mountain Time) Canada magaminer 20 2-4 hours a day during the winter Look forward to seeing you all!
  3. Archery Overhaul

    This is an updated OP. The first version was trying to be redundantly realistic, hopefully this is better focused on quality and not just random detail overload. In real life crafting a quality bow can be done with little more than a knife and a straight piece of wood but it wont last long and it won't be very powerful. Right now the recipe for a bow is a huge let down. Close range weapons have a levelling system and the only long range weapon in the game is nothing but a vanilla item with “longer hold = stronger shot”. I would like to see bow making take on some similar qualities to metal working in this mod (things like scaled tiers of weapon, a unique GUI for crafting, skill with associated benefits ...etc) If you are wondering why this is such a long post... It would be easy to make a short post that says “Buff archery!”, in fact many posts of this nature exist for various aspect of the game. Instead of simply complaining loudly about the current state of bows and arrows I prefer to be more solution oriented and actually propose a detailed system to fix the problem. If you think this is too much detail, perhaps you are right about some parts but overall I would disagree. Look at the level of complexity that goes into metals in TFC in contrast to Vanilla Minecraft. There are the basics that you see but loads more details in the background. What we currently have is more or less the vanilla mechanics of archery. Instead of proposing a half-baked idea I have chosen to flesh it out and display a possibility for what archery could (and I believe should) be in Terafiirmacraft. Mechanics of Archery •When drawing a bow, any length of draw will shoot an arrow (this makes sense but is currently not the case) •The velocity of the arrow is determined by the type of bow used and whether or not it was drawn back fully •Holding an already fully drawn bow for a longer time will NOT increase the damage done by the resulting shot •Holding a fully drawn bow can only be done for a certain amount of time before your arm tires and the shot cancels -The time limit is determined by the draw weight of the bow and the archery level of the player -A bow that can only be held for 5 seconds by someone who is level 0 might be held for 20 seconds by someone who is level 50 and indefinitely by someone who is level 200 (numbers are random to illustrate progression) -Gaining archery skill adds time to the limit for low level bows faster than it adds time to high level bows •Quiver HUD will show quantities of each arrow type and which is currently selected (hotkeys to rotate selection) •In real life, firing an arrow results in the bow tilting forward after the arrow is loose -This would also be added to prevent people from grinding targets with no challenge once they find an angle that works •There is a brief reload time between shooting an arrow and starting to draw the next one (mimicking the time needed to nock an arrow in real life, high level archers would be able to nock new arrows faster to increase their rate of fire just a bit) •Shooting an arrow will spook nearby passive mobs if the arrow -does not kill the animal instantly or -hits the ground near the animal(s) •The factors that affect the damage of a shot are -The velocity of the arrow -The type of arrow (Damage is determined by the base dmg of the arrow type multiplied by a value that is influenced by velocity) •The draw weight of the bow only loosely reflects the damage increase, it does not directly influence damage •The draw weight only determines the strength of the bowstring needed Archery skill •Archery skill would be gained by -crafting bows (highest, variation depending on type of bow) -crafting arrows (lowest) -hitting targets (none-high) -hitting players (medium) -hitting passive mobs (medium) -hitting hostile mobs (high) •Archery skill would -increase durability of bows when crafting (similar to smithing) -slightly decrease the time it takes you to draw any bow -give you more time to aim before your arm gets tired -slightly decrease the time it takes to nock an arrow (time between firing and starting the next draw) Target Practice •Targets are created by placing thatch in a 3x3 wall and firing an arrow into the center block. The thatch becomes an immovable entity with 2 hitboxes, the outer ring of thatch is a separate hitbox and the middle block which turns red in color and serves as the “bullseye” •Arrows must hit the bullseye to gain archery skill •The amount of skill gained would depend on the distance from the target -at close range (none) -at mid range (medium) -at long range (high) •The definition of close, medium and long range would be different for each bow Stone age arrows •Stone arrowheads are made using the existing knapping interface •Each stone is knapped into 1 or two arrowheads using this pattern (or mirror images/rotations) 1 arrowhead 2 arrowheads •Stone arrows -have the lowest base damage value -will break when they hit anything except a target, dropping a fletched stick at the site of impact -have no effect on metal-armored players and mobs -have a strong debuff against leather-armored players and mobs -can be crafted in a 2x2 grid using a stick + feather + arrowhead (Yields one arrow, 4 arrows from one head is silly) or -crafting a fletched stick with a stone arrowhead •Flint arrows -have a base damage value slightly higher than stone -will break when they hit the ground or a metal-armored entity, dropping a fletched stick at the site of impact -have no effect on metal-armored players and mobs -have no debuff against leather armored players and mobs •Flint arrows could be made crafting a single piece of flint, yields 2 arrowheads (or it could be done using the knapping mechanic for stone, or the flint could be used as an arrowhead the way it is currently) Metal age arrows •Same recipe as stone age arrows (feather + stick + arrowhead = arrow) •Metal arrowheads of copper and bronze can be cast in a clay mold -one arrowhead mold can be cast into 4 arrowheads -one arrowhead mold consumes 50 units of molten copper/bronze (net yield is 8 arrowheads per ingot) •Wrought iron, steel and black steel must be worked on an anvil to create arrowheads - First you must work an ingot into a pile of small ingots, this is made using Punch, Last Punch, Not last Punch, Not last -Working one pile of small ingots gives 8 arrowheads (same net yield as casting) •There are 2 types of metal arrows: Broadhead and Blunt Broadheads -The clay mold for casting broadheads would look like this -Making broadheads on an anvil would be done by working a pile of small ingots using Hit, Last Hit, Not last Shrink, Not last •Broadheads do piercing damage and cause a bleed effect for an additional bit of damage 1 second later •Broadheads have a chance to break if they hit a metal-armored mob or player. (chance decreased with better metals) Blunt Heads -The clay mold for casting blunt heads would look like this -Making blunt heads on an anvil would be done by working a pile of small ingots using Upset, Last Draw, Not last Any, Not last •Blunt heads do crushing damage but are only effective against skeletons and birds, they will stun larger (non-skeleton) mobs for a brief moment (time increases with better metals) •Blunt heads do not break Bowstrings •To make a bowstring hold at least 8 string in your hand and alternate left and right clicking (simulates plaiting) •After 8 right clicks and 8 left clinks the string is consumed and you will have a bowstring with a 8 pound draw strength. •Hold the bowstring in your hand and for every following 4 sets of left and right clicks following the initial creation of the string, 4 string is consumed from the inventory and 4 pounds is added to the draw strength of the bowstring •In order to string a bow, the draw strength must be equal to or greater than the draw weight of the bow. Stone Age Bows Basic Self Bow The staple long range weapon of the stone age. Specs -Draw weight 16lbs -Draw speed 3s -Draw hold time 8s at level 0 -Durability 300 uses Crafting •Splitting a log with a stone axe (by crafting together) gives a Rough Wood Stave •Right clicking holding a Rough Stave and having a stone knife on your hotbar opens a GUI to tiller the stave into a bow Diagram of tillering for stone age bows (brown section=wood and is 1500x100 pixels thick, everything is proportional, 1 unit = 10 pixels) -The Rough Stave is displayed across the screen as a long rectangular shape with a slot at the top right hand corner that takes the knife from your hotbar automatically (to help players know they need to use it) -The faint shape of a finished bow could be displayed above the visual of the stave to help the player know what to do -A Rough Stave has a max thickness of 10 units and a minimum thickness of 8 units, wood in the sections outlined in red may or may not be there. -This means that there is always 6 units of thickness that goes through the center of the entire stave •Left clicking with a knife in section 1a will remove a unit of thickness from the top of section 1 •Left clicking with a knife in section 1b will remove a unit of thickness from the bottom of section 1 -If all the wood is gone in 1b then clicking in 1b will start to remove the wood at the bottom of 1a •To successfully turn the Rough Stave into a Basic Self Bow (unstrung) you must thin the Rough Stave so that there is -1 unit in section 1a -2 units in section 2a -3 units in section 3a -2 units in section 4a -1 unit in section 5a (The shape of the bow is what matters, the sections with wood in them can be translated vertically up or down so long as the shape remains intact) Diagram for shape of finished Basic Self Bow •If any segment is left too thick when exiting the GUI the item will remain a Rough Stave and the tooltip will display Item has been carved •If any segment is thinned past the point of being able to create a bow, the Stave will show Ruined on the tooltip when the GUI is exited •To string the bow -make sure you have a bowstring with the correct draw weight in your inventory -hold right click with the bow in hand (like you were firing) and the unstrung bow will bend back -when it reaches full draw the bowstring is consumed and you now hold a Basic Self Bow Bamboo Bow Not as powerful or durable as the Basic Self Bow but much easier to acquire. Specs -Draw weight 8lbs -Draw speed 2s -Draw hold time infinite -Durability 120 uses Crafting •Harvesting the bottom block of a 3-tall sugarcane with a knife takes 10 seconds and drops a Bamboo Stave (similar to breaking grass with a knife yields an intact resource while punching will destroy it) •A bamboo stave only needs to be strung using the same mechanic for stringing the Basic Self Bow and it is ready for use Metal Age Bows (Work in progress) Other features I can’t decide on -Multiple bowstring materials (string, jute fibers, sinew…etc) -Bowstring durability (based on material & draw strength) -Sights to help aim (a use for gems) If you want to read the original post for quotes, references or just to see where this idea started here you go. Hi, thanks for coming over to read this, it means a lot to me. I'll start off by acknowledging that I'm totally new to this forum, so none of you will know me. I hope that doesn't affect your opinion of my ideas too much. My first time making a bow in terrafirmacraft was a bit of a let down. It's such a delicate, long, time consuming and skilled process in real life that I expected something fun and challenging in game. My goal for this thread is to show you how Archery in TFC could be something that takes time to master, has good rewards, takes effort, patience and ads to the immersion of the game as well as adding another dynamic to SMP where players would become skilled bowyers, serving their communities and making high quality weapons for their friends. Having a good bow would be a point of pride on a server, where crafting the best bow can take a full year to do it properly. I couldn't get this archery business off my mind so i threw it into words on a page. Nearing the end of my venting I realized I wanted to make a suggestion thread, so I made a forum account but to my horror (Should have seen this coming a mile away) a fellow by the name of Jed1314 already asked for an ranged weapon overhaul. No disrespect to him or his ideas and please know I wrote all of this before I found his thread. Here goes. I think everyone was happy when they saw the quiver added but the sad fact is that Archery is currently a 2 and a half tier system. Tier 1- You have no bow. You have no arrows. Tier 2- You pluck 2 pheasants and kill 3 spiders. You now have the best bow and more arrows than you will use in a year. Tier 2.5- You kill a few pigs, make your first saw, hammer and find a few flux stone for making leather. You now have a quiver. Tier 3- There is no tier 3, you have everything you will ever have. That's it. You're done.... good job. Go mine some copper. As you can see there more than a little is room for improvement. I am sure that the developers are well aware of this but nevertheless I would like to voice my opinions in hopes that I am not the only one who would like to see this aspect of weaponry fleshed out in the near future. Maybe I'll get lucky and someone will even agree with the specifics Bow-making is a highly complicated art form, many people devote their lives to it and are still getting better. Obviously metalworking is the current focus of complexity but I think archery could be a great runner-up. Am I suggesting a ridiculous amount of detail? Yes. Would it take a ton of code? Yes. Could it be simplified? Absolutely. This is just to show what it COULD be. As always it's up to the devs to determine what it actually WILL be. First I will give you a nice list. Then, if you're interested, there will be more detailed explanations of the logic and rational that went into the the things on the list. That will go under the list. Have a nice day :3 Condensed list of additions to archery Archery skill- Become a Robin Hoodlum! Multi-step bow/arrow creation- Get crafty! Different bows/arrows- Upgrade your gear! Comprehensive list of additions to Archery New Blocks/Items/Thingies Straight Stave The first step in making any bow above bamboo is to acquire a straight stave of the needed wood type. Straight staves are worked on the bowyer station to create bows. They drop from breaking logs that were not placed by a player and can only be dropped from the log block you are breaking, not from any logs above it that will fall when you chop below them. They are an uncommon → rare drop. (Higher level archers get a better chance of a straight stave dropping) Tiller Crafted using 5 planks (must be from hardwood tree) fill center column and place a plank in both bottom corners Used when crafting higher tier bows, after stretching unfinished bow on it you can see where more wood must be removed to progress to the next stage. Contains a slot for a string. String must be equal to the draw weight of the bow to use it on the tiller Drying rack 3 planks on bottom row and a triangle of 3 sticks, can hold 1 bow (and possibly a certain amount of food) for drying Horn/Antler Mob drop from rams or deer, respectively Used in crafting composite bows Sinew Rare drop from pigs, cows & sheep Consistent drop from deer Used in crafting composite bows Collagen/Glue Collagen is a by product from scraping soaked hides, it is the connective tissue on animal hides. Every 4 collagen (stacks to 32), kept very hot*** (or hotter) in a fire pit for a full 2 minutes with enough empty bottles in one of the output slots will produce a bottle of glue. Bottles of glue have a multiple use durability and are used to fasten different parts of higher level bows together. Linseed (Crop) aka “Flax” Harvesting flax yields flax fiber and 3-6 seeds. Cooking 32 seeds in a fire pit with empty bottles in an output slot will produce bottles of linseed oil. Flax fiber is processed the same way as jute. Osage Orange (existing tree) Tier VI Osage orange is one of the best woods for bow-making irl. Since we already have an orange tree i decided it would be simpler to use it for this. When harvesting the trunk blocks of an orange tree you will get either a bent, warped, knotty or straight stave. Straight staves make up 5% of drops and are the only stave that can make composite bows and stocks for crossbows. The other staves are useless for bow making but can be cut into lumber and crafted into orange wood planks to make the Bowyer Station (new multi-block structure) Lemonwood (existing tree) Tier V Same mechanic as osage orange but using lemon trees. This wood is good enough for a recurve bow but not composite. Chance to get a straight Lemonwood stave is 8% Yew (new tree) Tier IV Spawns like any other regular tree (not tfc fruit tree). It is required to make longbows. A straight yew stave has a 10% chance to drop but only from the block you are cutting, none of the tree that falls down above your axe cut has a chance to produce a stave. Maple/Oak/Ash (existing trees) Tier III All these trees already exist. Harvesting a straight stave is a 15%chance. These woods are needed to make shortbows. Bamboo (new item) Tier II Bamboo staves are harvested by breaking the bottom block of a 3-high sugarcane that grew on its own. The higher archery level you are the faster you can successfully harvest a bamboo stave. You have to be careful, so breaking the block at low levels will take about 45 seconds. Big Stick (new item) Tier I Crafted with any 3 sticks diagonal in the crafting table along with a knife in any empty slot. This is used to make beginner’s bows. Chromite (new ore) Contains chromium, used in making spring steel Spiegeleisen (new alloy ore) A natural iron alloy ore with 15% manganese, 85% iron. Ideal for spring steel because the manganese content is already the right amount. Mix 92% Spiegeleisen and 8% Chromium in a crucible to obtain stainless steel alloy (new crucible mixture). Spring-Tempered Stainless Steel Made by repeatedly working stainless steel ingot on an anvil. Every Hit, Hit, Hit finish has a 10% chance to produce spring tempered stainless steel Bow Strings (new item) Instead of spiders dropping string they drop silk threads. Hold silk threads (at least 16) in your hand and alternately left and right click in the air (8 right clicks and 8 left clicks). This will plait the threads together into a bowstring with an 8 pound draw limit. In order to make stronger bowstring for higher level bows, repeat the process while holding a bow string in your hand, silk threads in your inventory will be consumed and for every set of 8 left clicks and 8 right clicks (still alternating) 16 threads will be used and the string will gain 8 pounds of draw limit. Target (new placeable item) Large targets are made by crafting 2x2 thatch with 2 planks underneath. Hitting a large target adds to your archery skill. Distance to target is factored in. Small targets are made with thatch overtop a plank. Hitting a small target adds more xp then a large one. Distance is factored in. Poison (new item) It would involve 2 new poisonous crops, golden poppies and cassava and appropriate steps for processing the raw plant material into poison. Higher level poisons could be created using other mechanics involving poison dart frogs or abalone shells, to name a few possibilities. (More on this idea if you guys are interested) Addition of archery skill -Archery skill increased by -hitting targets (skill increase based on distance to target, size of target and where you hit) -hitting mobs (skill increase based on distance, size of target and how clean the shot was) -hitting players (skill increase based on distance and where you hit) -Archery skill will influence 8]-how fast you draw ANY bow 8]modifies the base value for a faster pull 8]-how steady you are with ANY bow 8]crosshair waivers while holding a draw, this affects how quickly and how much your aim will stabilize after drawing a bow (different from bow accuracy) 8]-how fast you can nock another arrow 8]this is obvious, an experienced archer can rapidly draw and fire arrows but a beginner will take more time to grab for his quiver and nock the next arrow 8]-how long you can hold bows at full draw 8]Bows with heavier pulls wear out your arm faster and holding at full draw for too long starts to make your cursor move erratically until you are forced to cancel the shot 8]-what types of bows and arrows you can use 8]If you attempt to use a bow that is above your level you will get a message saying “Maybe I should practice on something a little easier first.” and you will not be able to fire an arrow 8]NOTE At lower levels the archery skill provides more of a boost per (x number of levels) 8]For expample: (using random numbers) getting to level 100 might take 0.4 seconds off your draw times but getting to level 1000 might only take off 1.3 seconds. 8] Bow attributes Draw speed (in seconds)** Base draw time to a max velocity arrow, holding a bow at full draw for 10 seconds doesn't make the arrow fly any further then holding it there for one second, but it will make your aim a little more steady. This should be a mechanic, it takes only a few seconds to reach max potential energy at full draw but in order to steady your aim you must hold it there while you line up your target. Hold it too long and your arm will get tired (at higher skill levels you can hold bows full drawn much longer as you increase in strength) Draw weight (in pounds) ** Main factor in determining the resulting velocity of the arrow at any given stage of the draw. In combination with the arrow used and the skill level of the archer this helps determine damage. In conjunction with archery skill this attribute also determines how long you can hold a bow at full draw before your arms gives out. Accuracy (max angle variation in degrees)*** (low-high)** When the arrow is loosed it will fly at an angle slightly off what was aimed. Higher tiers of bows will fire shots with less and less deviation from the crosshair. ONLY THE WORD VALUE is shown on when shift+hover cursor, the decimal value is the max angle it can deviate and is used only for calculations. Durability (uses, numerical) * This is not what breaks the bow. When a bow reaches 20% of it’s durability it starts to lose it’s spring and fires with 5% less velocity for each additional percent of durability lost until it reaches 0% durability and the bow loses its spring entirely. A bow below 20% durability can be re-tillered at a bowyer station to get it back to 50% of it’s original durability, the 50% becomes it’s new max durability so when it reaches 20% of that it can be tillered again if the player wishes to get a few more shots out of it. Bows can be re-tillered no more than twice, after that there is not enough wood left and it becomes a decorative item. -Decay (dry >>> rotten)* Historically the composite bows that had sinew, horn, bone and wood in them were used in dry regions because of the higher risks of decay. With the exception of the crossbow, bows will become progressively wetter when they are taken outside in the rain, when taken swimming or when stored on a tool rack that does not have a solid block over top it during a storm. While exposed to water the bow progresses from damp → wet → soaked → musty → mildewed → decaying → rotten. The rate of progressions increases a you go along Here is information on each stage Water-proofing of bows can be done by crafting the bow with a bottle of linseed oil (new crop) and a wool cloth (cloth not consumed, empty bottle returned) Each waterproofing lasts 3 days. Damp No effect on using the bow, serves as preliminary warning. Wet 25% chance to use 2 durability per shot Soaked 75% chance to use 2 durability per shot, velocity decrease 10% Musty 2 durability per shot, 25%chance to use 4 durability per shot, velocity decrease 20% Mildewed 5 durability per shot, 30% to use 20 durability per shot, velocity decrease by 35%, 4% chance to break on use Decaying 30 durability per shot, velocity decrease by 50%, 20% chance to break on use Rotten Bow breaks. Drying To dry a damp, wet or soaked bow more quickly you must place it on a drying rack (new block) with one air block in between the rack and a lit campfire or 2 air blocks from a lit forge. (This could also be used as the mechanic used to dry fruits, vegetables and meats) Note, if the bow is in the musty, mildewed or decaying stages a drying rack MUST be used, air drying (in the inventory or on a tool rack with no fire) may only be used to dry a bow that is damp, wet or soaked but will take significantly longer. -Brittleness (supple >>> brittle, affected by temperature)* This attribute only affects the crossbow because the part that bends aka, the prod (or lathe, in this case because it is made of steel) is metal and so becomes much more brittle when cold. Along with 2x rot progression on the composite bow this mechanic serves to reduce power-creep in archery. 8]Supple Ambient temp above 0º, no debuffs. 8]Cold**** Ambient temp between 0º and -20º, 1% chance crossbow lathe will shatter when both winding or firing 8]Brittle Ambient temp below 20º, 10%chance crossbow lathe will shatter when both winding or firing * indicates information displayed with hovering cursor over item** indicates information when shift+hover cursor ***(Note that deviation should be randomized to fit WITHIN the max angle and should not always BE the max angle. ie: a bow with terrible accuracy might shoot right where you are aiming, but it’s unlikely) ****Realistically this is the brittle temperature of high-carbon steel, stainless spring-forged steel would be fine well under 100º celsius. For believability though I think it’s fine. Different bow types Beginner’s bow 6s 12lbs Dreadful accuracy (1.4º) 120 Bamboo bow 7s22lbs Poor accuracy (1.1º) 220/220 1.5x rot progression speed Short bow 5s30lbs Fair accuracy(0.6º) 410/410 Can be fired while riding a horse Long bow 6s45lbs Fair accuracy (0.55º) 440/440 Recurve bow 4s60lbs Good accuracy (0.2º) 710/710 Can be fired while riding a horse Composite bow 3s80lbs Very good accuracy (0.025º) 1300/1300 2x rot progression speed Can be fired while riding a horse Spring-Tempered Steel crossbow (fires steel bolts) 16-Draw speed150-Draw weight ca Very good accuracy (0.1º) 1200/1200 susceptible to cold CONCERNING ACCURACY If you are wondering about the accuracy values I will briefly explain. Using basic trigonometric ratios you can determine how much an arrow can go off course. Assuming all arrows fly straight lines (no gravity) and every bow was capable of shooting 100 blocks. A bow with a max accuracy variation of 1.5º COULD hit roughly 2.6 blocks to either side and up or down of where you aimed. (Keep in mind the bows with the more terrible accuracies will not be able to fire great distances anyway so this will be diminished) A bow with 1º COULD be up to be 1.7 blocks off center at 100 meter distance. A bow with 0.1º COULD be up to 0.175 blocks off center at same distance. Remember that I say COULD because it will more often hit somewhere between center and the max variation. Your shooting won’t ALWAYS be off. Fewer mistakes when crafting a bow will be able to make the accuracy slightly better (and visa versa), more on crafting later (if you guys are interested) Crafting Arrows Too many arrowheads spoil the broth… Not sure who makes arrowhead soup but I’ll keep that in mind. All arrow recipes are shapeless and involve the arrow head, a stick and a feather. ​Crossbow bolts are crafted with a bolt shaft on top a feather. All arrows have 0% chance to break when fired into a target (right clicking target will pull arrows out one at a time starting with the most recent addition Stone age arrows Stone arrowhead Lowest Damage Crafted using the existing knapping interface Created 2 arrowheads at a time using this technique (requires some finesse, horizontal and vertical mirror images also viable) All arrows with stone heads will break on impact unless the arrow hits a player/mob/target in which case igneous extrusive arrows have a 60% chance of dropping when the animal/player dies. Igneous Intrusive have a 40% chance to do the same. Metamorphic rocks are at 20% chance and sedimentary stone cannot be used to make arrowheads. (IMHO it shouldn’t be used for any tools… who ever heard of stone tool being made from chalk?) If the arrow is not retrieved then the animal broke it off and it is gone for good When hitting the ground with a missed shot only the head of the arrow breaks or all the birds would be dead in a week. Simply recraft broken arrow with a fresh arrowhead and try again. Flint arrowheads Same dmg as stone (but can cause bleed, can add poison) I don’t think the current recipe has anything wrong with it. If you added flint knapping and used the same knapping recipe as stone to double your arrowhead output that would be appreciated by people who keep firing arrows at the ground and breaking them. Flint arrows would use the same breaking/repairing mechanic and percentages as igneous extrusive rock, but they have a 30% chance to cause a mob or player to bleed for an additional 50% of regular damage due to being sharper than their stone cousins. Flint arrows are the only arrows that can be treated with poisons to create poison arrows. (poisons contain compounds that could react with metals and become useless, also serves to prevent OP arrows with both high damage and poison) Metal age arrows All metal arrowheads are produced by working metal ingots in an anvil. Start ingot with a process that ends in Punch, Punch, Punch (punch ingot 3 times = 4 joined pieces) This creates a metal item called “small joined ingots” This item is immediately worked again with a process ending in Draw, Any Hit, Punch (pull out shape, flatten to broadhead, punch to separate 4 arrowheads) Allow arrowheads to cool and craft as before mentioned to create arrows. All metal arrows are retrievable when the animal they are shot in is killed. Broadhead Arrows -Effective against naked players, leather armored players and mobs (except skeletons) Copper Broadhead Lower dmg, 15% chance to break if arrow hits the ground Bronze Broadhead Medium dmg, 8% chance to break if arrow hits the ground, 10% chance to “bleed” an additional 50% dmg Wrought Iron Broadhead High dmg, 3% chance to break if arrow hits the ground, 20% chance to chance to “bleed” an additional 40% dmg Steel Broadhead Highest dmg, will not break if hits the ground, 25% chance to “bleed” an additional 35% dmg Steel Bolt Shafts Made by working “Small joined ingots” with a final process of Any, Draw, Punch (pull shape and punch to separate, no flattening needed) Only effective against armored players/mobs. (Bolts don’t have the internal bleeding effect of broadheads and so are not used in hunting, they existed solely to punch through armor) Crafting Bows This is where I have to figure out how to explain the visual in my mind about the interface for working staves into bows. It would require multiple steps, drying in between, tillering, bending with hot oil and some other stuff in a unique GUI but at this point I feel I should slow down and ask what you guys think before writing an almanac on bow making. Let me know if you're interested in my ideas for actually crafting the bows! And questions, criticisms and general feedback are welcome! PS, If you made it this far I am truly flattered. Thanks!
  4. Credit goes to Djakuta for inspiring me to think beyond braziers and cauldrons and create a total revision of how hunger, cooking and nutrition are managed. When posting suggestions that deal with a specific idea in this broad topic please make sure you have looked through the detail section to ensure your post is fully informed and contextual. Purposes of better cooking(If you just want to skim the basic ideas read this) [*]Create incentive for players to invest in food preparation (more early game dietary restrictions, max health better uses player diet, variety to keep the boredom away, feasts with friends ...etc) [*]A more realistic and entertaining variety of food items and recipes that uses existing ingredients [*]Implement various ways to cook different food items and recipes (ceramic and metal cookware, clay and metal ovens, pots, cauldrons, cooking in vessels ...etc) [*]Reward players who invest time in cooking with more than just a skill level (better tasting food can be eaten faster, meals that include more food groups later in the game, better ways of creating meals, fancy desserts ...etc) [*]Make use of the ceramic pot (item available in creative mode, currently not implemented) [*]Re-work the idea of meals (random ingredients that make no sense irl seem like a good placeholder to me but not a finished product) [*]More realistic cooking in fire-pits (using clay pots and cooking on coals instead of flames) [*]Multiblock ovens and iron/blue steel stoves double as efficient home heating for body temp update [*]Allow players who want to do other things to survive on basic foods while still providing benefits for spending time on fancy cooking [*]Tweaks to nutrition, hunger and taste Detail Section(Possible ways to actually implement these ideas, open to suggestions and will be updated, key points in bold text) General changes(nutrition, taste, hunger) [*]Food groups not longer all require the same amount to fill up. A balanced diet would include more fruit and vegetables and grain than meat and diary. [*]Filling up your food group bars takes a lot more work and is difficult until late-game cooking, players starting out are stuck at lower max health values (compensated by adding ways to eat grain early game) [*]The taste of all raw foods is a set value (ie: lemons/garlic lower- apple/tomato medium - peaches/blueberries higher) [*]The taste of cooked foods (except stews) is affected by cooking level. [*]Taste determines how many oz you can eat during each eating animation [*]Burnt food is still edible but will always taste terrible (eaten 1oz at a time) [*]Ounces consumed determines the hunger bar change [*]Nutritional value of food multiplied by ounces consumed determines how much the nutrition bars go up [*]Having a higher cooking level will also give you more time before food that you place in a fire/oven/stove gets burnt [*]Each food group bar takes much longer to fill up and much longer to empty. Severe malnutritionshould not be solved by eating 2 good meals. Neither should someone become malnourished if they go 3dayswithout a steak. Nutrition levels would follow the harvest cycle, at the end of the fall players would be very healthy from all the food they had gathered over the summer, as winter progresses into spring they would become less healthy unless they had preserved enough food from the year before. [*]Hunger would be less related to nutrition, think of hunger as needing mostly carbohydrates for daily energy(fruits veggies andbread) and health as an indicator of how balanced your diet was over the past month or two. [*]Fun idea: Once per season (winter/spring/summer/fall) players should be able to enter a"Feasting Mode" where hunger drops 3x faster and you can still eat when you're full. Overeating would apply a slowness effect for 1-12 hours (proportional to the amount you over-eat) This would be fun to use during a feast in SMP, but would also benefit players who are malnourished after a long winter by providing them a way to quickly boost their nutrition levels after the first early crops come in.NEW! Practical application examples if you are slightly confused by all the bullet points: You eat raw garlic 1oz at a time, it's gross so you to eat it slow, it's not very nutritious so while you might not be hungry anymore, your max health doesn't skyrocket. You eat raw potato 3oz at a time, it's not terrible, it's a little more nutritious but baking it would make the taste and nutritional value go way up. You eat a banana 5oz at a time (all raw fruit tastes good except lemons and olives), good nutritional value You eat hot apple pie 15oz at a time, even without a high cooking level it's delicious and will saturate fruit and grain bars quite a bit. You eat a 5oz bowl of stew (8oz if savoury) You can carry a full pot with you and it includes grain, meat and vegetables (and possibly cheese) so up to 3 food groups stay high (and maybe dairy gets a small boost) Cooking Methods Roasting in fire-pits-Earliest game cooking, to use a fire-pit to cook you must use coals, not an open flame. To build up coals burn logs for a while, a "coals" bar in the fire pit GUI will fill up. -After the wood runs out thefire pitwill continue to stay hot and emit light until the coals die, which would take quite a while. -To cook on coals place maize or meat (except eggs) infire pitcooking slot -If placed in the fire pit when logs are burning it will almost always burn before it cooks. (High cooking skill lowers this chance) -There is no output slot that cooked food magically goes to when it's done. -If food is left in the fire 5secondstoo long it will burn Boiling in ceramic pots (clay cookware) -Early game cooking, add water to clay pot (same way you add to jugs) and place food in inventory slots, then place full pot in the fire pit cooking slot. -Boiling certain vegetables (carrots, squash etc) will improve their nutritional content and the taste -Can be used to boil eggs -Can be used to boil oats or rice for early game grain consumption -Later in the game could be used for recipes such as french onion soup (see new foods and recipes section) -Food being boiled in ceramic pots does not burn when left in a fire, and can be cooked over a flame as well as coals Baking (see Ovens and Stoves section) -Middle to late game cooking, baking foodsinsideclay, fire brick and metal ovens is done the same way. -All ovens would be used to bake dough into bread. -Clay/brick ovens and metal stoves would be used extensively in conjunction with clay and metal cookware to cook more advanced recipes such as pies, complex breads, casseroles etc (see new foods section) -If food is left in an oven for 30 seconds too long it will burn -If food is left in a stove 2 minutes too long it will burn Making Stews (see Pots and Cauldrons section) -Middle to late game cooking, requires either a copper pot or a wrought iron cauldron -Copper pots would hold less and would be placed over an open fire-pit to boil -Iron cauldrons would hold a massive amount of stew but would need to be placed over top a metal stove to boil -Stews would be able to use any meat, any grain and several types of vegetables -They would provide the benefit of making large amounts of food portable and would be the best type of food for filling tp the meat grain and veggie nutrition bars -They don't have a taste rating and are eaten in 5oz portions (one bowl) to maintain balance -Doesn't burn Grilling (see Ovens and Stoves section) Late game cooking, using the grill on an iron stove top provides a way to cook large amounts of meat at a time with a much lower risk of burning Ovens and Stoves NEW! For ovens and stoves I'm not sure if applying the same "coals" mechanic requirement for cooking from the fire pit would benefit gameplay, but if it was, adding charcoal would fill the "coals" bar 4x more than burning a log. Clay ovens Multiblock structure, used for baking breads as well as poorly heating homes Crafting Building a clay oven would be done one layer at a time. Placing clay blocks with a clear path to the sky and letting them sit there from dawn 'til dusk turns the clay block into hardened clay blocksOnce each layer is dry you can add the next, when you have the entire oven built and dried, load the center with a log pile and light it to create the oven (you could just place clay blocks everywhere, wait for them to dry, mine them all then build it all at once)When lit, the air block in front of the log pile becomes a minecraft furnace block, re-textured to match the hardened clay blocks.Lit ovens would use the burning furnace blockBuilding the clay oven Bottom layer Middle layer Top layer Lighting it Finished oven Clay oven mechanics Right clicking the furnace block would access the GUI where you could add fuel, see temperature and add dough to the cooking slotsWould use logs and charcoal as fuel and would burn fuel at a normal rateCan cook 2 items at a time Brick ovens Multiblock structure, used for baking breads, cooking complex recipes and firing pottery faster than a pit kiln (only brick ovens could fire pottery, so they are still useful after you get an iron stove) It would also poorly heat homes Crafting Same shape as clay ovenUses a 3x3 base of fire-bricks, layers 2 and 3 could be any brick type (requires chiseling)Lit the same way as clay oven, by placing a log pile and hitting it up with afire-starteror flint&steelWhen lit, the air block in front of the log pile becomes a minecraft furnace block, re-textured to match the fire brick blocks.Building the brick oven Bottom layer Middle layer (some chiseled blocks) Top layer (all chiseled blocks) Lighting it Finished oven Brick oven mechanics Right clicking the furnace block would access the GUI where you could add fuel, see temperature and add dough or cook complex recipes to the cooking slotsClay ovens would use logs and charcoal as fuel and would burn fuel at a slower-than-normal rateThe brick oven could cook 4 items at a timeIf using charcoal as fuel, the brick oven would be able to fire pottery using the burn time of 3 charcoal (This is because a pit kiln can do the same 4 items at once but uses 8 logs. In a charcoal pit 8 logs produce an average of 3 charcoal so the fuel used is the same, but the pottery is finished significantly faster) Wrought Iron Stoves Placeableblock, used for making breads, baking complex recipes, cooking with an iron cauldron and easily heating large homes Crafting Making an iron stove is done on the anvil by working a double sheet of wrought iron, welding it with another double sheet and then working againIf two stoves are made and placed next toeach otherthey connect like a chest to form a large iron stove.The chimney can be placed in the block above a metal stove (and on either side of a double-stove). Making a chimney is done by working a double sheet of wrought iron on an anvilIron stove mechanics Right clicking the iron stove would access the GUI where you could add fuel, see temperature and add dough or cook complex recipes to the cooking slotsIron cauldrons can be placed in the block above the stove by shift-clicking (both a cauldron and a chimney can not occupy the same block, to use both you need a double stove)The iron stove could cook 6 items at a time, or in the case of a double stove, 12Iron stoves would burn fuel at the slowest rate, requiring little maintenanceIf a chimney is placed above the stove it will cut boiling time in half for cauldrons, double the time it takes food to burn and have a larger warming radiusBy having a double stove you can benefit from having a cauldron that also cooks at double speed byplacingthe cauldron on one half and the chimney on the other, double stoves would also have a larger heating radius even without a chimneyUnlike clay and brick ovens stoves can burn charcoal and coal, when cooking food inside the stove coal can not be used, when boiling a cauldron on the stove coal works fine Blue Steel Stoves Almost identical to iron stove but does not require constant refueling Crafting Same as iron stove, but using blue steelThey can also be placed next to each other to create a large blue steel stoveBlue steel stove mechanics Blue steel stoves can also use the chimney block to decrease cook times by 50%They can cook the same number of items as the iron stoveThe advantage of blue steel stoves is that they use lava as fuel, a single lava bucket will fuel a blue steel stoveindefinitelyor until the stove is movedMoving the stove requires that a new lava bucket be emptied into the stove as fuel Cookware & CauldronsNEW! Cookware Made of clay or metal, clay having a chance to break, iron cookware beingindestructible For the sake of simplicity clay cookware would be the same ceramic pot item used for boiling veggies/oats/rice/eggs in early game cooking Metal cookware would be worked from an iron sheet and would give you 2 pieces of cookware Cookware would be used for making and baking the complex recipes, in order to make using the cookware beneficial, food baked in cookware should decay slowly enough to justify the effort required to make it. Surviving off basic bread, boiled veggies, cooked meat etc would be possible, but throwing a feast with your friends where everyone gets drunk and eats delicious pies and casseroles would be super fun. Iron Cauldrons Cauldron mechanics Worked on anvil from a double wrought iron sheetCauldrons would be placed and picked up via shift+right click with cauldron/rempty hand, respectivelyRight clicking a cauldron with stew in it while holding a bowl would fill the bowlThere would be an EMPTY button in the cauldron GUI to dump the last 1-4 oz of stewThere would be aCOOK button used to create the stew (see below)The GUI contains 6 slots where full stacks of food (160oz) can be placedThese 6 slots would accept items from the vegetable, meat and graincategories.The GUI would also have 3 slots for 20oz food stacks where players would add additionalingredientssuch as garlic, onions, or rock salt to apply theSavoryeffect,boosting the taste to allow a bowl to contain 8oz (for more info on theSavoryeffect, check the new foods and recipes section)Please note: One vessel can hold 640oz of food in a single inventory space, so a 60+ lb stew is a lot, but not unbalanced. In fact, considering the effort involved in making stews I suggest that stew in cauldrons not be affected by decay, or if it is, make it compound at only +5% per day so that players actually want to make stew instead of surviving off a vessel of assorted food groups from early game cooking. Making stew -Fill at least 4 of the 6 main slots with 160oz of undecayed food stacks -Optionally add savory ingredients -If not already done, place cauldron on top a metal stove block not occupied by a chimney -Open stove GUI and hit the COOKbutton, this takes away the GUI (same as sealing a barrel) until the stew is done -For the cauldron to boil the stove must remain at or above cooking temperature for 1 minute (or 30 seconds if using a double stove with a chimney) Copper Cauldrons -Given that players could hold so much bread, boiled vegetables, cooked meat, fresh fruit or cheese in a single vessel, making a copper cauldron with reduced carrying capacity seems rather redundant to me. I don't think there is a good reason to add this, I've only included it here to let you know I've considered the idea. Leaving cauldrons at iron encourages progression. New Foods and Recipes(coming soon)
  5. Archery Overhaul

    Think of it this way. If it takes 5 steps and a combined drying time of 100+ days there's no point making the bow before you have metal. That, and things like drying racks would need lumber... So no composite recurve without metal tools. I see no reason to find silly workarounds to design a crafting process that avoids all metal age tech.
  6. Body Temperature Tolerance Build Up

    Good grief. The OP is a fantastic suggestion. All the talk of genetics and fancy science, while interesting does not negate the fact that over months and years, anyone's body can adapt to a slightly higher or lower average temperature. I live in Canada, when it's 10 degrees centigrade I go outside in a t-shirt. If I moved to Hawaii for 3 years then came back to Canada I would NOT be going outside in a t-shirt in 10 degrees. A limit to how much a player can acclimatize is certainly needed if this was added but this suggestion is great. I would also like to see a similar mechanic in place for elevation. Players who spend lots of time at the tops of mountains should have an additional resilience to the cold (since air pressure is not a thing in TFC we can just use a boost to cold tolerance above the limit in adaptation to the z coordinate) Yes, behavior is ultimately the biggest factor but I think this mechanic would compliment behavior very well.
  7. After playing 79 SMP for a while I was wondering if it's feasible to tweak the way food decays. I think it's a little odd that fresh tomatoes and dry grain, both stored in the same conditions will decay at roughly the same rate. I think it's sensible to make the distinction between the decay rates of different foods more dramatic. If I throw barrel full of potatoes in a cool dry place they should last for months. MUCH longer than blueberries (which seem to decay at roughly the same rate) Apples should also last much longer compared to, for example, peaches, which should go to mush faster than they currently do. Grain silos keep dry grain perfectly good for YEARS irl but for some reason dry grain in a TFC barrel will be at 40% decay within a matter of months. Now you might tell me to cut the decay off... and I would if it was single player, but TFC is said to be balanced for multiplayer and in my case I have time to log on for only about 2 months of the year (if I'm lucky). In the time between going to bed, getting up, working and coming home I've lost 60 pounds of maize. This, to me, does not seem balanced for SMP at all. Long story short I think there should be an increase in foods that more closely mirror their real world counterparts. In SSP go ahead and chow down on plums and peppers, but on SMP there should be ways for people to store grains for longer periods of time so they aren't left with empty cupboards when they log on the next time. What are your thoughts?
  8. Take a sealed barrel... (Brace yourself now) ...and put it on your back.
  9. Oh... I see. Well then, that's... ok I guess. Better than the current system but I still believe what I had outlined above would be a better solution. More code no doubt, but better for the end users.
  10. I loved the latest addition of smoking and the barrel mechanics that deal with preservation are great too. I'm glad that burlap is in the works for root and tuber type veggies. I look at the wheat that has been sitting in sealed buckets in my garage, it's been there for 3 years. It's absolutely fine. Then I log into a server and the grain I harvested 2 weeks ago has been sitting in a loaded chunk and it's half gone. My personal opinion is that in addition to burlap sacks, a multiblock granary is desperately needed but my ideas regarding the specifics of that are fairly fleshed out probably deserve a massive post elsewhere, if not a new thread entirely. These two new things (burlap and granaries) combined with a handful of different classes of food with carrying decay rates more or less identical to what alice has suggested would turn the food decay system from a work in progress to a fully rounded out and enjoyable finished project.
  11. Water From Seaweed

    Have you ever had seaweed even? That stuff is salty. If anything it should negate thirst...speaking of which, why not? Imo it would be really neat if seaweed, salted meats and other certain foods gave a tiny decrease to your thirst bar, and then things like peaches etc would add a tiny bit. Nothing to big, onlynoticeableif you were eating it plain for whole day.
  12. Archery Overhaul

    </3 You're breakin' my heart darling. Hehe, glad you like the rest of it. I actually never finished/added the metal bow section because while working on it I got the same feel, although they do exist metal bows don't feel right alongside the rest of the game. A composite recursive (and maybe an extra large long bow) would probably be the only logical remaining bow types, requiring metal age technology but no metal in the bow itself. Multiple steps, drying times, layering, fun stuff...
  13. Splitting Blooms

    I was about to make a bug report because I couldn't split my 840% blooms on the anvil. (Yes, I know what I'm doing and it was lined up with punch last) After 4 failed blooms I tried re-selecting the plan for refiened blooms, since raw blooms only have one thing you can make with them it is selected by default but if it doesn't work, re select the final product (refined bloom) and then do the finishing moves again. Hope this helps anyone. Let me know if this is happening to you in the latest build, if anyone can re-create this it deserves a full report. @Kitty, tried to recreate this but it seems to be inconsistent. (was playing 79.8 SMP, which change log says blooms have been fixed in. I went into SP and tried to test everything needed for a proper report but it didn't repeat itself in my testing.)
  14. Barrel crashes my MC when I seal it

    try 11 hrs a day 6 days a week can't wait for winter and some well-earned time off
  15. Allowing players to attach a lead to TWO fence posts (with a limit of say, 15-20 blocks) would be a really cool little feature. Now before you crush this notion simply because it's not NEEDED, please remember that much of the fun of things are the little bits that don't make or break the game but simply add a touch of enjoyment and possibility. I for one, would immediately start building a Spanish galleon with authentic rope-rigging, and I would love it.
  16. Grain storage

    Personally I fantasize about multi-block granaries. The mud bricks that currently have no recipe or use, combined with the recently added trapdoors would make an ideal combination along with a certain set of specific mechanics I've been tossing around in my head for a week or so now. Haven't decided if I want to necro the old granary thread with a massive post or start a new one all together.
  17. Small RPG server for b79

    Rhodance cuts people off at 14 I believe, for people who aren't 15-17 there is a bit of leniency based on maturity. My only impression of you comes from the 4 sentences you've posted on this thread but they seem like some pretty decent sentences. Bottom line is that you miss 100% of the white-lists you don't apply for.
  18. Small RPG server for b79

    Check out Rhodance's HugBox server. Whitelisted 18+ cooperative semi-rpg goodness.
  19. Thatch as of Build 79

    Every established player on the server has the same excess. Perhaps it is your play style that is not the norm. I'm curious to see what the results of a "too many sticks" poll would be. EDIT: Of all the uses you listed the only ones that consistently use any significant amount of sticks are torches and ladders. Everything else put together would be less than these two combined. 64 levers and 64 item frames should last almost forever, rails use basically nothing, tools you make rarely once you get past stone, paintings are not used by the hundreds, fishing rods last almost forever, fire pits take next to nothing, flint and steel replaces fire starters and even then 2 sticks is nothing, unless you need a thousand signs I don't see why 128 shouldn't last a long time, bows are negligible, arrows are incredible stick-cheap to craft... honestly I don't see how you run out. Unless you build exclusively with stone and your idea of a big tree farm is woefully small... I can't get on board with this.
  20. Thatch as of Build 79

    I was thinking while looking at my 3-double chests of sticks (and counting) that it would be great if they had more than 2 uses. I love the changes made to thatch and was wondering if 8 sticks surrounding a jute fiber could make a replacement roofing block that's firm enough to walk on. The hundreds of sticks and piles of jute required for this isn't something that players would get a their hands on until later on so the early game magic block balance is not an issue. In fact, the earliest you could get one would be several months into a new game when the wild jute reaches maturity. Another option for attractive roofing is something I think people would like. (remove the jute entirely and have the blocks be non-solid too if needed, I still think it would be nice and people would love a way to use all their sticks)
  21. A Bug Request

    It's sad that in fast-food-infused north america we look at the healthy, ecologically friendly and highly efficient practice of eating insects as gross. IMO there's nothing wrong with your suggestion but in the end the devs are the ones who write the code and it's up to them to decide what is and what is not "gross". Even if B and D have no issue with it they might just feel that the food system is well-rounded as is and they would like to work on other aspects of the game. This would make a really cool add-on though.
  22. Compressed sticks don't make sense to me. I would rather see them used as bundles of sticks (yes, I know there is a word for that) as an alternative fuel in charcoal pits. Another possible use of those bundles would be in roofing, something sturdy that you could walk on since thatch is now permeable. (No balance issues here as it takes metal age tools and several months to gather enough sticks to do anything useful, at which point you already have logs and planks and bricks etc. As Draco_X said, the grill is exactly what you're looking for. Be warned it only cooks foods in stacks of up to 80oz. To craft it place 2 double wrought iron ingots in the working slots of an anvil. Select the grill plan and hammer away. As far as I knew cooking in the forge got removed in b79 so I don't understand how you could be doing it unless you haven't updated.
  23. Barrel crashes my MC when I seal it

    Can confirm. This bug has been plaguing the HugBox server for 3 days now. You said SMP. Are you playing on Rhodance's white-listed server? If not we have a more widespread issue than we thought. (In my experience with this bug it only occurs when liquid is involved and it also extends to sealing large vessels. A server-mate indicated it was an issue with dates and getting times.)
  24. I wholeheartedly support the flint and steel being able to go on a rack as well as in a chest. Like a knife it is actually pretty small, so believability isn't an issue. Fire-starters are so cheap I don't really care about them, but for consistency's sake, sure why not. The rope is a no-go for me. I prefer having them stack in a chest. Although as a builder/decorator having rope hanging in the barn as a mostly decoration piece IS appealing. I love having multiple ways of storing and displaying things. Perhaps what we really need is a shelf. Similar to bibliocraft that can store and display 4 items (that normally would go in a chest). I think that block would fit with TFC's theme quite well and would get quite a bit of use both as a decorational and functional block. If you really can't handle the flint in a chest, use an item frame. They work but I still vote in favor of more storage/display options.