Ditto8353

I wish it didn't completely cover the texture it was painted on

BTW, it still says "I AM A GUY" 1,0:111___7___11_3__3__3_1_3____7___11_3____7____3_1_3_11_3_1111_3__3__3_111_3_1_3__3 ____1010000000101110001110111000000010111000000011101110100010101110001110101110111000 ____._._______.__-_____-___-________.__-_________-___-__.___._.__-_____-__.__-___- _____I_________A_________M___________A_______________G________U____________Y So yes, I can understand considering you're not actually a guy.

Sorry, I guess it was the caps emphasis and such combined with a very rough day. Not much of an excuse to take it out on you though, so I do apologize.

Next time you post a puzzle for people to try and solve, you should try not insulting the people trying to solve it. You've been doing it in IRC since you posted the thing, it's pathetic.

maybe it's not poorly encoded Morse?

That's what it says in poorly encoded Morse.

"I AM A GUY"

Speaking of aliens! DId you guys hear about the planet they found a few months back? Something like 90% pure diamond.

Bioxx changed some rendering code. Also it only works for a couple minutes tops, and then it crashes with a Tessellation error.

I'm so bad at DF I really like it though. I just wish I could keep my Dwarves from dying within the first 5 years. It's usually caused by overpopulation.

Your boot and shut-down times will be slightly faster. And every time your system needs to access drivers it will be faster. I don't know the value of using a SSD for only the OS though. It doesn't sound like an overwhelming change.

Nope. Unfortunately it does not work with TFC. I tried with TFC B69

Pokemon My first obsession. Played Red, Blue, Yellow, Card Game, Card Game (the GB game), Gold, Silver, Pokemon Snap, Sapphire/Ruby, Diamond, Pearl, Platinum, Black, White2. Most of them, as you can see. I love the math behind the scenes in these games. EV training has always been enjoyable for me. The Sims A friend in middle school got me into The Sims and I am terrified to think about how many hours I spent just building and decorating houses. WoW Started in Burning Crusade, top healer and general theorycrafter on server, switched to mage in Wrath, top mage until I quit playing. Played off-and-on with Cata GTA4 Used to play for hours and hours on end doing nothing in particular. All my friends stopped playing though. Terraria ~400hrs of gameplay, every item in game, nothing left to do I haven't really been obsessed with a game since then. It is actually a little depressing at times. I miss having a game that I enjoy so much that I can sit down and play it for an entire weekend.

The standard is now 7200rpm, like your TB drive. High speed drives can get up to 15,000rpm last I saw.

Edited while you were posting. Be sure to read it, I don't want you to misplace my intentions.

Ever use a flash drive? They have very simplistic controllers and they last for quite some time. SSDs have much more advanced controllers to help them last for much longer by using "wear leveling" combined with additional reserve MOSFETs. Ultimately it depends on your read/write activity which is why you should never use SSD for simply a storage drive. They are meant for system and application usage. Here is some reading material. http://forums.macrum...ad.php?t=948946 http://www.tomshardw...27-32-life-span http://www.techradar...044988/review/3 Edit: I'm not actually saying you should get a SSD. It probably would not be very useful for you since you are not gaming on a hardcore level. Rendering audio would probably use more read/write than usual as well. I was just correcting a bit of misinformation. I also suspect that most of the information that you ran across is out of date. Electronics technology is the fastest growing technology in the world and it can be difficult to keep up. Are you aware that a PC can be made within the space of an 8.5x11 piece of paper and just as thin?

You are tragically misinformed.SSD lasts 10+ years. Not as long as a normal HDD, true, but certainly longer than a couple months.

If you used SSD you would be done installing sooner.

I believe the proper version is "Player API v1.0 for MC1.4.5"

Removed by Ditto.

Make sure you're running the proper version of forge. If TFC and SM aren't using the same version of Forge then you might not be able to use them together for now.

It is a reference, you just didn't get it.

do you get an error or does the mod just not function?

Yes, solder is a word, both noun and verb.

I apologize for the length of this post, but detail is important in this matter, and personal background is important for you to trust my advice and opinions. Introduction This is for all of my fellow gamers and computer enthusiasts who may be less informed or may simply be first starting to get a foothold on the subjects at hand I'm not posting this to make myself look smart or cool, I promise. I decided to post this because I love to help people and I love computers. My life literally revolves around both of these concepts. I have been working with computers since I was very young and my schooling and career are both centralized on these subjects. Currently I intern as something similar to technical support (i.e. I provide support for users of an ERP system and develop modules for the system). I am choosing to help you now because I like you, maybe not as a person because I do not know all of you, but as a gamer and a supporter of TFC. Suggested vendors in order of favoritism. NeweggXoxideTiger DirectSelecting Parts CPUYou can look at shiny cases with lights and tubes all you want, but your CPU had better be the first thing you pick out. It is the most important part of your computer. It is also one of the most expensive parts which makes it very unfortunate that people are so misguided in their selection. When the majority of consumers look at a processor they see 2 numbers: Clock Rate (in GHz) and the price tag. That's not the only thing you need to be aware of when choosing a CPU, and the Clock Rate can be severely misleading. The true power of a processor is shows most readily by IPS (Instructions Per Second). This is because a CPU can perform multiple instructions per clock cycle, and multi-threading and multi-core technology further compound the problem with Clock Rate being used as a standard performance indication. What it truly comes down to is the framework. Unfortunately, you will need to use a website like http://www.cpubenchmark.net/ in order to discover the true potential of a processor because it is very rare to see IPS labeled on the box, and a manufacturer will never give the details on heavily guarded frameworks. So Intel or AMD? The answer is always Intel unless you're planning on literally building a supercomputer. Intel provides a superior framework for consumer level computing. However, if you are planning to run your system off of a server motherboard then AMD may be able to provide you with better options. It has been a long time since I have run off of a server motherboard, so you must do this research on your own. Motherboard Once you have your CPU picked out you will need to find a MoBo to stick it onto. This is a lot easier than choosing a CPU, you can basically just search for a MoBo that has the appropriate socket for your CPU (e.g. LGA1155, LGA2011). But once again there are a few other things you need to look for. Chipset North Bridge and South Bridge chipsets control communications between the various parts of your computer (e.g. CPU, RAM, PCI). Most likely this will never be a driving factor in your choice of MoBo, but this is useful information none the less.RAM You need to know the maximum supported RAM, supported RAM frequency and RAM type.Max Ram Supported - You want to make sure that your MoBo supports the amount of RAM you want to have as well as some extra in case you decide to upgrade. More than 16GB of RAM is overkill.Frequency - Frequency is a more reliable measure for RAM than it is for CPU and indicates how fast your computer can move things into and out of RAM.RAM Type - DDR3 is twice as fast as DDR2 with the same frequency. Stay away from DDR2.You want at least 1 PCI Express (PCIe) expansion slot. You don't need PCIe 3.0 unless you plan to get a more powerful graphics card which may then be limited by the slower PCIe 2.0.Make sure it has on board audio unless you are an audiophile and don't mind spending the extra money for a separate card and a more defined frequency range. For most gamers a USB headset will replace speakers anyways, since it can more accurately provide surround sound.SATA 3, you need it.USB 3.0, you need it.RAMYou need to balance your total amount of RAM with the operating frequency. 4-8GB of RAM is a good starting point and you will most likely want a frequency of at least 1866. If you plan on using an SSD as your system drive you will want faster RAM to keep up with the speed of your hard drive. GSkill makes good quality RAM, but they can be rather pricey. GPU Let the nerd-rage begin. You want an NVidia card for gaming. You shouldn't really need a very powerful one either. I run on a GeForce 560 Ti (NVidia manufactured) and it handles Crysis 2 on full graphics no problem. The 600 series is a vast improvement on the 500 series, so a 660 or 660 Ti should easily handle any game you throw at it. Back to that ATI vs NVidia thing. It's very similar to what happened with Intel vs AMD. ATI and NVidia used to compete directly in the GPU market, but as PC gaming became more defined the two companies split paths. ATI now has a focus on professional graphics cards, optimized for 3D rendering (e.g. Pixar). NVidia, however, saw the profit potential in the hands of the gaming community. You have to admit, we are rather prone to spontaneous purchases. So because of all of this, ATI's gaming cards do not have a framework which can compete with NVidia's. I suspect that the only reason ATI continues to make cards for gaming is to capitalize on the consumer loyalty of those who were buying GPUs before the split occurred. HDD You should have 2 hard drives. You will want one for storage (500GB+) and one for the OS and applications (128-512GB). Your storage hard drive doesn't need to be very fast, it just needs to be large enough to suit your needs, and reliable. I recommend Western Digital. Your system drive, as I like to call it, should be as fast as you can possibly manage on your budget. If you cannot afford a decent sized SSD then you should go with the Western Digital Raptor. It has great speed for its price. However, if you can afford an SSD then I suggest Samsung first, OCZ second. I would advise against getting an SSD any smaller than 128GB. A smaller one can fit your OS on it, but there won't be much room left for applications. It is nice to have quick boot times, but you will want the true speed of your machine to show in applications. Why Solid State? How fast could it really be? And why? When a computer system reaches a bottleneck, I can say with near 100% certainty that it is caused by the speed of the hard drive, especially in systems without a solid state hard drive. This is because traditional platter hard drives have moving parts. When data must be read from the drive, the actuator has to line up with the platter and read the magnetic field of the platter at the specific location where that data is stored (that is why magnets are bad for computers). Solid state drives don't have moving parts. They don't have very much to wait for aside from the speed of electrons and the speed of the drive's controlling unit. Solid state drives are fast, very fast. The outer edge of a standard 15000 RPM HDD can travel at about 160 miles per hour, and SSDs are still up to 5 times faster (WD Raptor averages 100MB/s read). Solid state drives don't have to spin up the platter and they don't have to move the actuator, they just need a small electric pulse. SSDs use flash memory in which every bit is represented as a single MOSFET (Metal-Oxide Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor). Just to give you something to try and wrap your mind around, this 32GB MicroSDHC card has about 2.8 billion MOSFETs inside of it. Power Supply You will want a good 700W power supply. Don't skimp on this part, because I've lost a good $3,000 computer because the power supply went out, frying every capacitor on the motherboard and taking everything else with it. Make sure your power supply has all of the connections required by your other parts. It's a good idea to always get a power supply with a 20+4 Main Connector so you can change MoBos if you have to and keep the same power supply. Modular power supplies are always a good choice. It allows you to use only the cables you need and remove the others, greatly reducing the clutter in your case and increasing the airflow. Case That brings us to everyone's favorite part, the case. To start things off, you don't want anything smaller than an ATX Mid-Tower, and I suggest getting a Full-Tower if you can afford it. When you have more empty room in your case, the fans will be able to push more cool air over the components (Provided you don't buy a $20 case with terrible fans. Empty space with cheap fans just results in turbulence, it stirs the air around but doesn't push enough of it out the back.) Cooler Master, Antec, and Lian-Li all make good cases. I prefer Cooler Master as they are relatively cheaper, but provide similar quality products. Lian-Li are something like designer cases. The Cooler Master HAF series are superb cases. If you ever ask me for a recommendation, I will tell you to go HAF. After all of that is said and done, the case comes down to personal preference more than anything else. Just make sure that the power supply is mounted on the bottom and the case is compatible with your motherboard's form factor. If you're out to spend several hundred dollars on a lit-up case with a cool window on the side, you may want to rethink the direction in which you are heading. If you want your case to be a truly beautiful work of art, and unique, you need to buy a simpler case and learn how to mod it yourself. Xoxide has plenty of modding tools and parts, and most mods are quite simple if you are careful with them and have a basic understanding of electronics. Other Thoughts For learning how to mod a PC. Electronics courses, both High School and College are VERY helpful. (Required really.)Metalworking courses are also helpful. I wish I had taken one, now I must learn on my own.Dremel Tool. Get one. A VERY good one.BE CAREFUL! There is no safety net. Take your time with everything you do, and do extensive research before you do it.Don't get a fan controller with less than 12W per channel.You don't need to be rich in order to be a gamer.Wikipedia and Google can teach you anything you want to know. Building Your Computer PrecautionsYou may have seen those stylish static bracelets or those fancy electronics workbenches, and you've similarly probably wondered who in their right mind would use them, let alone buy them. Well I do for one. When your new computer parts account for a reasonable portion of your monthly budget, it is of dire importance that you take every precaution in protecting your investment. That is what a computer is, an investment. If you have ever purchased your own car, or even your own house, you will understand what I mean, but let me offer you this thought: A car can run anywhere from $2,000 to $50,000 and more. Usually you will be spending about $10,000 on a new, low-cost, car. Now how much do you use that car compared to how much you use your computer? I spend 1 - 2 hours in my car every day. I spend at least 5 hours on my computer every day. (I have friends, I swear.) Your Baby Your computer is your new baby, and you should treat it just as gently and carefully. It will be able to withstand more of a jostle once everything is put together in the case, but until that time all of the components are woefully unprotected. You should not take anything out of its packaging until you need it. Soldering Points All of those little spikes on the back side of circuit boards are soldering (SOD-er-ing) points. It's a conductive metal with a low melting temperature which is used to connect wires and components to each other and circuit boards. It is also used in low-end jewelry. When done professionally, soldering points are usually durable enough, but you should still take care not to be too rough with them. You should never slide any components, pick them up and set them down. Static A static shock will almost certainly ruin any of your electrical components, but that doesn't mean that you need to wear a static bracelet every time you open your case. The less humid the air is, the more likely you are to have a static shock, so if all of the water in the air is frozen into snow, or burned away by the scorching sun, you should wear a static bracelet. If there is a relatively severe lightning storm going on nearby then you should wear a static bracelet, or just put off the work until the storm is gone. If you simply don't want to buy a static bracelet or don't want to use one, then install your power supply into your case first and have it nearby even when you are working outside of it. And have it plugged in. The power supply grounds the unfinished metal inside the case, so once the power supply is installed and plugged in you can periodically touch the unfinished metal inside the case to make sure you haven't built up an electrical charge. Magnets Feel free to use a magnetic screwdriver, it will make putting your computer together a lot easier. Magnets aren't actually bad for computers, they're bad for traditional platter hard drives, and even then you need a considerably powerful magnet to cause any real damage without trying. If you rub a fridge magnet all over your HDD you might have some problems, but sticking them to your case is fine. The reason magnets are bad for platter hard drives is because they use magnetic fields to store data. If you could see and feel magnetic fields, an HDD platter would be covered in tiny little bumps. Wikipedia has plenty of neat information on this, and learning how different types of memory work can help you appreciate the pure badassery that is electronics. What You Need Phillips head screwdriver (+)Flashlight or lamp. Cieling lighting is not usually enough. I have an LED flashlight I like to use, but hands-free would be better.Scissors and/or razor blade for opening packagesZip ties, medium and small, for cable management You might want small wirecutters for cutting zip ties. I find it easier than using scissors.A clean flat work surface. NEVER THE FLOORClean hands.A good fan or airconditioning. You would be surprised.Power SupplyThe power supply is the easiest thing you're going to do today. Enjoy it while it lasts. Just figure out where it goes in your case, line it up, and screw it in. It's not getting shot into space, so there is no need to over-tighten the screws. Just give it a little jiggle when you're done to make sure it doesn't move around at all. If you have a modular power supply don't connect any wires until you need them. Your power supply will not turn on until it is connected to the motherboard, but even then do not turn it on until you are finished. CPU + MoBo Read what the manual says. Both of them. You're holding a $300+ component, just do it. Set your motherboard down on your work surface and keep everything away from it. The processor slot should have some sort of locking mechanism, usually lever tucked under a small hook, but depending on your motherboard it may be more complex. Unlatch the locking mechanism and clear the way for your processor. One of the corners of the processor slot is missing a pin hole, and should have an arrow in that corner. The top of your processor should have an arrow to match. The LGA2011 slot has 2 levers and a cover. Set your processor into the slot and gently poke at the side of it to make sure it has slid into the pin holes correctly. Never push down on your processor. Then gently latch it into place. You may hear creaking when you do this and it may feel difficult, this is ok. Provided that you have read the manual and have properly inserted the processor, and are properly operating the locking mechanism, nothing bad will happen to your processor. However, if you hear any crunching noises it's time to back up and double check everything. Take out your processor's heat sink and read to manual to learn how to install it. Heat sinks vary greatly, so it is nearly impossible to give a single instruction on how to install one. All I can say is that you had better be certain you're putting it on the right way before you let the thermal compound touch the processor, and don't forget to plug in the fan. But once that is done, you've made it through to fire, that's the most stressful part about putting a computer together. MoBo + Case If installing the processor is the most stressful operation, installing the motherboard into the case is the most difficult, and it has everything to do with the rear panel. The rear panel is the aluminum sheet that all of the ports stick out of. If your case already has a rear panel inserted, take it out and put in the one that came with your motherboard. The rear panel is inserted from inside the case. This is difficult every time I do it, and I always feel like I am going to break the little thing. Just remember to only put pressure on the edges of the panel. Once the rear panel is inserted you can compare the screw holes on your motherboard with the screw holes in your case. Your case may have a section in the manual explaining which holes to use depending on the form factor of your motherboard. (Mine was wrong, so just do it yourself.) Once you know which holes to use, insert the risers. Risers keep the soldering points on the back of the motherboard from touching the metal of the case, causing shorts. Once they are installed you can begin the task of installing your motherboard. Getting your motherboard to line up with the risers is harder than Israeli/Pakistani negotiations. By the way, the screw holes on the motherboard are the little holes with metal rings around them. The metal rings allow the screws to act as grounding points which helps to simplify the circuitry on the motherboard. I like to start with the screw hole furthest away from the rear panel, and NEVER fully-tighten the screws until every screw is in place. Once your motherboard is screwed securely into place, you can plug it in, which requires two cables. Obviously you need the large 20 or 24 pin connector which is the main power connection for the motherboard, but you also need the 8-pin connector which supplies power to the CPU. It connects in the upper left corner, near the rear panel. The main connector should not be run behind the motherboard because of its large size. The CPU power connector, however, is much thinner so you may want to stand your case up and open the other side in order to run the cable behind the motherboard. This will help keep your computer clean and increase air flow, and will make your computer look more professional. Case Fans Go ahead and plug in all of your case fans. If you have a side fan you will have to wait until later to plug that one in. All of the fan ports on the motherboard should be labeled 'FAN_1' and so on. The manual will show you where all of them are. Front Panel Don't call this the Front Side BUS. They are two very different things. This is my favorite part because all of the little wires make me feel like I am defusing a bomb. The front panel connections are located at the bottom right of the motherboard, and it will look like one big plug with several different colors in it. You should consult your motherboard's manual to determine which connections are which, or you can just read the tiny writing on the motherboard near the connections. These cables can also be run behind the motherboard if you wish, and this is where you really want to start using zip ties to gently, but securely bundle cables together in order to reduce clutter. Be sure to trim off the extra bit of zip tie, leaving a couple millimeters left. Lets take the power switch for example. The plug should be labeled 'PWR' and the port should have a 'PWR+' and either a 'PWR-' or 'PWR_GND' label. The plug should also have a small arrow on one of the sides which marks the positive wire. If it does not, just remember that the colored wire (Not white or black) is positive. Don't be afraid of plugging something in backwards. The only things that really care about direction are the LEDs and the speaker. If they don't work the first time just turn them around. You will also need to connect your front panel audio and your front panel USB ports. The USB ports should be at the bottom of the motherboard, near the other front panel ports. If your front panel is rated for USB 3.0 then make sure you are using 3.0 ports in order to get the best speeds. The audio port, however, tends to jump around depending on the motherboard you have, so use the manual to find it. You also need to read the manual in order to determine which audio plug to use. It depends on the on-board audio your motherboard has. RAM Make sure your case is lying on its side if you have decided to run any wires behind the motherboard. RAM is easy to install. All you need to do is spread apart the latches and press the RAM into place. Just make sure you line up the notches in the bottom of the RAM with the notches in the RAM slots. You will know that the RAM has been fully inserted when the latches automatically close. If you have more RAM slots than you have sticks of RAM then read your motherboard's manual to figure out which slots to use. Using the correct slots will optimize your computer's use of its resources. Graphics Card Remove the expansion slot cover(s) on the back side of your case to make room for your graphics card. The removal of these covers has gotten more complex since manufacturers started trying to make computer assembly as tool-free as possible. It was much easier when it was just a screw. Carefully line up your graphics card with the PCIe slot (make sure you're using the fastest PCIe slot the card is compatible with) and press down evenly. You should hear a satisfying click as the PCIe slot latches the card into place, and you should then be able to secure the card to the rear of the case in the same way that the cover was secured. Once the card is secured, connect it to the power supply. Your graphics card may require 2 power connections, but your power supply should be able to handle anything you throw at it. You will have plenty of adapters. Recently it has become more and more difficult to fit the graphics card into the case. I usually have to come in at some awkward angle and straighten out right on top of the PCIe slot. Hard Drives and Disk Drives This will require you to read your case's manual, because every case can be different, you will most likely have to stand your case up for this part if you haven't already. When installing your hard drives, space them evenly through your case to help with airflow. This is not as important when installing disk drives. Once your drives are in place you need to connect them to the motherboard. Your main hard drive should be connected to the fastest SATA port available to it, which you can find by reading your motherboard's manual. The SATA ports should be on the right side of your motherboard. After that, connect any other hard drives you have, using the faster ports first. Once all of the hard drives are connected, connect your disk drive(s) in a similar manner. The final step is to supply power to your drives, and I always run these cables behind the motherboard. They create far too much clutter otherwise. Oh, and have you been using zip ties? You really should, it makes everything look so pretty! Also it helps keep things from bursting into flame. Close It Up That's about all there is to it. It's easier than some people might expect. If you only take one thing away from this post, remember to take your time and be careful with everything you do. Everything else is in the manual. If you ever have any questions, feel free to ask in this thread or in a personal message. Even posting a new thread in 'Off Topic' will be helpful to you, as many people here have knowledge on computers.