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Peffern

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Posts posted by Peffern


  1. [*]A new block the "mint" is added. It would be somewhat expensive/difficult to build, and not available at lower tiers. It can turn a liquid ingot into coins- perhaps 8, or 16 per ingot.

    Beware the trap of adding new crafting blocks with only one use. It is baaaaaad. (Cough cough IC2 cough cough) seriously. Do not add a mint for the sole purpose of making coins. No!

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  2. Chopping a tree down and getting all the sticks, although seemingly unbalanced may be more balanced than you think, as it only provides sticks, you won't get saps, meaning tree farms will diminish if you don't gather saps. And the campfire issue isn't an issue at all, it's just how it's supposed to work.

    Maybe if cutting down trees had a reduced drop chance. (Of sticks).
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  3. Actually that ability is unlocked with number of posts and rating. The newer members aren't able to access that feature. You veterans probably never noticed until after you were able to change it your selves

    Smart phone. I've probably had it and not known it.
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  4. lol dunk is trolling both me and peffern :D/> i wonder what he can come up with next, and no dunk, dont change just a number or letter of my name XD

    Glad to see dunk has his sense of humor all the way up to 11. Luve ya dunk.

    Spontaneously Combustible

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  5. my concern is averages. If the AVERAGE conversion rate is 4 small to 1 normal, then that's the ratio you should be able to craft them in. Doesn't matter if you sometimes only get 1/24 of an ingot when you usually get 1/12, as long as you get 1/6 an equal amount of the time. All that matters is the ratio of averages

    Well, are we assuming that people are melting one small ore per mold and crafting them together (and abusing the repair bonus) which averages 9, or that they're doing what they're supposed to abs melting them together, which averages 12?
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  6. I have to attack your "hold down" the mouse button idea. My mouse HATES terra firma, and chiseling is nigh impossible when every few times I click my mouse, it clicks twice. Trying to hold something down for an extended period of time seems like a way of punishing people with defective special mice.

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  7. Tiered compasses don't really make much sense. magnetism aside, what's going to separate a steel compass from a zinc one.

    However, the outside of a compass doesn't have to be magnetic (like the vanilla recipe) just the needle. The very first compasses were simple a bowl of water with a needle floating on a leaf inside it.

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  8. First and foremost I would like to say that -by far- and a wide margin tfc has the best metalworking and age progression I've come across in, well, any game I've played, so when I say rant, this is more me nitpicking about aspects or lacking features or steps.

    Secondly my qualifications, if that really even matters. I have been working as a blacksmith for just over 5 years now, more specifically a 'Whitesmith' which is the finisher/polisher/edger that deals with making a blade, well, a blade. That said it's a small shop, and me and the Smith are personal friends. I claim not to be a 'master' at anything, nor does he, and anyone that does should be looked at with suspicion, however I personally know a lot about a lot in regards to metalworking and finishing, from which I offer these suggestions.

    I am going to do my best to keep these in some semblance of order, so I'm formatting this by the age/metal.

    Tin, Zinc, Bismuth

    -----------------------

    Right, this get's right into the heart of my gripes off the bat, while the basic idea of, make a plan on paper and hammer out the metal to its shape works for those metals that can, for one, actually be worked with a hammer, the softer 'lower tier metals, can not. The reason being is that, for starters, these metals are soft, relatively speaking and have a nasty tendency to air harden. What is 'air harden(ing)' you might ask? Well it's just what it sounds like, after heated, the metal hardens when it is exposed to air, and is almost impossible to shape with a hammer because it will crack as the metal is overworked. These metals are traditionally cast into their shape, and then finished off with a grinding wheel/stone and edge hardened with a hammer, or heat and quenching, depending on the metal...

    Right so off the hilt, we have three issues I see; 1) the lack of molds/casting early metals into tool-heads 2) proper water quenching, 3) lack of a finishing device, be it sharpening stone or stone grinding wheel.

    1) Well you already have making clay molds into ceramic molds for ingots so you're partially on the route there, Be it making clay molds into tool-head shapes rather than ingot shapes, or ditching that idea for one that I favor better and would maybe work easier, sand casting.

    Could be something as simple as taking 7 plank blocks in a U filling the center 2 open blocks with sand to make a casting table, or something more along the lines of the bloomery where the player has to build a structure/pit and fill it with actual sand, but you could re use it, and the sand, what really matters is making the impression, or the 'master copy' of the tool you're going to make. Without introducing more items to the game, that could be done in a GUI similar to knapping and clay, to make an un-fired clay master of, for this example, an ax head. Then you fire said master in a campfire to ceramic or a 'finished master' ax head. The rest would work like the tool plan in the anvil, put 'finished master ax head' in one of the slots, then a liquid ingot in a mold in the other, you get once unfinished ax head.

    2) While quenching these low tier metals really isn't the hardening technique you'd use, I'll skip that for now, and move on to retaining a game-play mechanic that is there already, the stone anvil. You can't really make tin, zinc, bismuth 'hard' [again relatively speaking] however you can put an working edge on them if you use a process called 'Hammer Hardening' which is, just as the name suggests, you hit it with a hammer, and you smash the crystalline structure of the metal tighter, giving it a stronger edge. So you would take your 'unfinished ax head' over to your stone anvil with stone hammer, and 'Harden' the edge, retaining the early need for an anvil and proper hammer control.

    3) Sharpening, this issue spans the gambit of metal tiers as I have never, ever, once seen a sword come off from under the smith's hammer with a sharpened edge on it, nor would you -want- that as the metal would be so stressed at the edge due to being worked at such a thin thickness that you'd likely crack it and ruin it instantly. Thus I would suggest a sharpening mechanic. There was another thread here which went into weapons not having durability but being infinite and have a sharpness meter, and I, for one, am in full support of that. The actual mechanics of sharpening could be as simple as finding a specific kind of stone and creating a 'wetstone' [which mind you does -not- use water like the name suggests, rather oil, mostly natural oil or not even any oil at all depending on grit] all the way up to making a grinding wheel similarly to the quern. As for what naturally occurring rock should be used for the low tech wetstone, I honestly don't know. All my stones I use are either, one, synthetic or two, come from the Arkansas quartz mines, and since I'm fairly sure Quartzite rock isn't the same thing, then my best guess is void.

    Copper

    -----------

    I got nothing, this is, indeed, an intermediate step between low level metal to bronze, copper is a very soft metal, I am not even sure making an anvil out of it would actually work, but, I'm not sure, so I'm letting it be. Would be nice for decorations though, pretty color.

    Bronze, Bismuth Bronze

    ------------------------------

    Right, again, these are metals [as are most of the others listed in this tier] that require to be cast into shape, then hammer hardened and sharpened, save one other step, quenching. Not like the quench option in the hammering GUI, but a physical plunge into water. I'm not for a moment suggesting that you have to take your still hot unfinished cast bronze sword blade and run outside screaming into the night to the nearest pond, [okay you could, but what you do on your own time is your own thing] but there would be something satisfying about physically tossing your hot blade into a water block [be that a physical block, or a place-able full water bucket, my personal favorite idea] and then being able to hammer harden its edges and then sharpen it into a creeper killing machine, thing... I hate creepers, you'll come to learn this. The idea of rapidly cooling hot metal would be great for other aspect, like cooling your freshly made bronze alloy ingots just cracked from their molds so you can stack them on top of each other or place them in the forthcoming ingot piles [also fantastic].

    While not vital really, the quenching mechanic, it does happen a lot in metal working in lieu of proper heat treating, which involves keeping metal at specific temperatures as it slowly cools down over the course of hours/days depending. But in interest of -not- making it game breakingly hard, simply water quenching your hot unsharpened tools before you take them to the stones would at least mimic that step. Maybe specific quenching temps based on metal type for proper sharpening to occur. I don't know many of the lower tier metals, but Bronze should be quenched when just above cherry red to properly hammer harden it.

    Steel

    --------

    Right, this is where the current way of doing things makes sense, making plans, and hammering ingots into shape, aside from the heat treating/hardening/sharpening gripes already covered, I have nothing, save my gripe of no uses for high carbon steel. Technically speaking, if one were to take one ingot of High carbon steel and one ingot of 'steel' and forge weld them, hammer them out into a blade through a folding process you get Damascus steel, which through carbon migration makes a higher carbon steel overall, but not blade shattering-ly so. Think of it as a sword in between steel and red/blue steel, that takes much more hammer work to produce, and much more flux. Not really needed, and you'd have all the Katana fanboys screaming at you how the Damascus steel sword should be able to cut through the heavens itself in one slice.

    [personal side note, I hate every one of you Katana fan boys, modern 8670 tool steel will vastly outperform traditional folded steel in both Rockwell hardness and durability, don't believe me? edge to edge my Scottish basket hilt, then talk]

    However on that note, the Japanese did develop a way to get iron from sand, as they didn't really have mines in the traditional sense, which might offer a way to get early game iron, if one is willing to burn enough fuel to melt iron out of 'heavy sand'.

    The forge itself

    -------------------

    More specifically the fuel. Our non gas forge which we use on site [yes, I do work re-enactments and Renascence fairs, so I do know much about old world forges] do not, ever, burn coal, or straight charcoal. We use a mixture of charcoal and coke, which is essentially coal that is burnt once before [much like a charcoal pit] in a coke oven to burn out the impurities. While coke isn't really needed for low heat work, it is essential for high heat forge work, such as forge welding steel, in a ratio of about 50-50 coke charcoal. Since I see the forge mechanic uses only one fuel unit per cycle you might consider adding a craft-able coke fuel item, which can be obtained by combining raw coke and charcoal in a crafting window. Raw coke requires another item like a bloomery to produce.

    [if you can't tell already, I'm a fan of the place able items, or player built structures that function.]

    I'm sure I have more, but I'm losing focus and rambling at this point, so I'm just going to post this as is, and amend/add to it if needed.

    WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE ON THESE FORUMS?????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I LOVE YOU.

    because

    a) you don't get offended with my grammar and bad humor and

    B) you seem to be obsessed with multiblocks/placeable interactables (like me)

    I LOVE EVERYTHING ABOUT THIS THREAD.

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  9. When you sleep in a bed, it sets your spawn point, even if it doesn't skip to morning. Let the curing of sleep-dep act like that (if only sleeping for one minute cured all my sleep-dep, I'd be typing at 800 WsPM)

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  10. We have a standard response to this idea: TFC mods are ok as long as no TFC files are edited or changed.

    What about replacing TFC files with other files (that is, If i wanted grass to spontaneously catch fire, I would right a grass block class that spontaneous catches fire and replace the old grass block, and yes, i know, blocks aren't classes)

    Or do I have to wait for a hook into the terrain gen?

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  11. http://www.grammarbo...tion/quotes.asp

    Second point. Clearly shows that you only include the question mark inside the quotation if you are quoting a question. Therefore, your requested title was a question.

    (I'm not doing this to make you look bad btw, I just wanted to make sure I haven't been doing it wrong my whole life :( )

    Rule 1

    Periods and commas always go inside quotation marks, even inside single quotes.

    taken from your site.

    Again, just making sure elementary school teachers weren't trolls.

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  12. Exactly. Research fits in games where:

    A) there is no otherwise limiting factor from endgame resources.

    B) the game is not immersive.

    In Civilization V, for example, if you could build Giant Death Robots from the get-go, wouldn't you?

    TerraFirmaCraft has a natural limitation: You're not going to have any blue steel until you already are an accomplished miner and smith, we don't need an additional limiting mechanice. Also, research implies you're actually learning anything, unlike Thaumcraft 3 (despite being a VAST improvement on Thaumcraft 2) where once you know the right aspects it's basically luck and resources.

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